The number of barbecue joints in Texas is staggering. Estimates exceed two thousand, which I think is still conservative, so when I began my Texas barbecue search more than a decade ago, I looked for ways to lighten the load. One initial strategy was to disqualify places that in my view didn’t adequately focus on smoking meats. If a restaurant advertised its salads or burgers, I ignored it. Today I realize how silly that was. Many barbecue joints, especially those in small towns, offer items beyond barbecue to keep the locals coming in several times a week. Among those offerings is delicious fried seafood, especially catfish. Because I missed out on a lot of great catfish, I decided on my recents travels to search for…
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