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A donut shop sits next to Brian and Julie Wright’s barbecue-centric taco joint along Texas Highway 154, halfway between Marshall and Gilmer in East Texas. The only other hot food available in the tiny community of Harleton is in a gas station. The Wrights’ restaurant, Wright on Taco, exists thanks to a pit left behind by a previous owner. Brian had worked at his family’s machine shop (they didn’t build smokers) prior to opening the joint in his hometown three years ago. He hadn’t cooked much barbecue before that. Julie was then a nurse who didn’t yet have a salsa recipe and had never attempted to make a tortilla from scratch—that changed a year ago when the couple decided to ditch the store-bought variety. The…
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