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At nearly every barbecue joint, there’s one person who gets all the credit. It’s usually the pitmaster, maybe a couple of pitmasters, but any owner knows that it takes a team to run a great restaurant. Eem, in Portland, Oregon (the hot barbecue city I praised this week), takes the opposite approach both with its talent and the menu. This Thai barbecue restaurant and cocktail bar is a collaboration between Thai chef Akkapong “Earl” Ninsom, master bartender Eric Nelson, and pitmaster Matt Vicedomini. (Their initials form the name “Eem,” which also translates to “satiated” in Thai.) None of them desire top billing, and their menu is a reflection of that. The elements in each dish that aren’t barbecue are just as important as the smoked…
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