![The pork rib trio from International Smoke.]()
I didn’t know what to expect when I ordered the smoked pork ribs at Candente in Houston. The menu’s description included ancho chipotle barbecue sauce, cilantro, queso fresco, and a chile lime butter. It sounded more like components of a taco than a barbecue dish. Owner Michael Sambrooks certainly earned his barbecue credentials with The Pit Room (on our Top 50 list) a block away, so I remained open-minded. What arrived to the table on a butcher block looked like no other rack of ribs I’d eaten. Houston is much lauded for its diversity, especially when it comes to dining. The city also is home to some of the state’s best barbecue. That healthy barbecue culture brings with it a confidence and a willingness to…
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