![Pitmaster and co-owner Matt Lowery of LJ's BBQ in Brenham prepares a smoked brisket taco.]()
When Truth Barbecue opened three years ago, Brenham quickly became one of Texas’s top barbecue destinations. But as Leonard Botello IV’s joint received praise and a national spotlight, a small barbecue operation was getting started across town. LJ’s BBQ, a partnership between Matt Lowery and Corey Cook, began as a pop-up with a borrowed smoker in late 2015. They had their own 500-gallon smoker built the following year, and took over the back room of the local liquor store. When I dropped in recently to their nearly year-old storefront on Main Street, they’d just finished a new pit room for their new 1,000-gallon smoker, tripling their barbecue capacity. From what I ate, they’re gonna need a bigger smoker. There were a few folks waiting outside…
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