An image of a cowboy in a white apron ringing a dinner bell towers high above Commerce Street in Brownwood. His name is Elmo, and he has beckoned diners into Underwood’s Cafeteria for decades, though the restaurant’s 1946 founding predates him by several years. This location, now run by the third generation of Underwoods, is the only one remaining of dozens of Underwood’s barbecue restaurants that spanned much of Texas and two other states. “Today marks the opening of Underwood’s Cafeteria number 36 in the Underwood family,” the Denton Chronicle wrote in March 1966. It was a high point in the expansion of the family name, but calling the outlets a chain would have been a stretch. Several Underwood brothers opened regional pods of restaurants,…The post Three Generations Have Kept Underwood’s Cafeteria Serving Barbecue for 76 Years appeared first on Texas Monthly.