The sign for barbecue seemed like a mirage along the relentlessly flat farm-to-market road in South Texas. I wasn’t expecting evidence of civilization for another ten miles, in Benavides, before encountering the gas station in the middle of nowhere that’s home to Gonzalitoz Bar-B-Q. Behind a small counter inside, the menu was short. Fajitas, mollejas, and brisket by the pound, on a bun or in a taco. Before that day, I’d never seen mollejas (the Spanish word for beef sweetbreads) on a barbecue menu, but not long earlier, I’d eaten some at J&S Pit Stop in San Diego thirteen miles north. At Gonzalitoz, I ordered three tacos, one for each smoked meat. Savoring the mollejas taco on a concrete table outside, I wondered if I’d…View Original PostThe post The Smoked Mollejas of Duval and Jim Hogg Counties appeared first on Texas Monthly.