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I recently sampled the new brisket sandwiches being hawked by chains from Arby’s and Subway to Quiznos. But before I get to that, let’s explore how the terms “barbecue” and “barbecued” have evolved over the past couple hundred years. Throughout most of the nineteenth century, a barbecue was any sizable event where people gathered to eat meats—usually whole animals—cooked over fire or wood coals. The food served was always referred to as “barbecued meat” rather than “barbecue.” Once meat markets and roadside shacks began selling similarly prepared meats, around the beginning of the twentieth century, “barbecue” came to mean the food served by those establishments. If you were eating barbecue, you knew by definition it was some form of meat that had been cooked over…
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