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Food courts are like rental car counters: no matter what you ask for, the expectation is serviceability, not excitement. That’s what makes Feges BBQ, at Greenway Plaza, in Houston such a surprise. Below street level, among food court staples like burgers and Chinese food, you’ll find a true Texas barbecue joint. Patrick Feges and Erin Smith opened the place earlier this year with a goal unlike that of other Texas barbecue joints: don’t let the smoked meats upstage the sides. From the first announcement of the coming restaurant, Smith said she wanted to get folks to come in just for the sides. At $3 a dish or $8 for three, it’s easy to try several of the eleven options. I invited my Texas Monthly barbecue sidekick, Christiane…
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