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Getting to the next great Texas barbecue dish as quickly as possible is always a goal in my job. But, when it comes to pastrami, it has taken me five years to find the best in the state. My favorite pastrami is being served at weekend-only farmers markets in Austin by Mum Foods. They set up their cutting board to slice off hunks of smoked Wagyu brisket, beef short ribs, and pastrami that’ll make a Brooklynite take notice. Mum’s pastrami began as a mistake. “One weekend in 2012, we ordered too much brisket for the farmers market, so we put some in a brine,” co-owner Geoffrey “Geo” Ellis told me. It turned out well enough that it became a weekly item, but the whole business went…
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