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In September 2014, when Thomas Abramowicz got the call that his smoker had arrived at the French port of Le Havre, he was ready. It had been more than a year since the Paris native had first decided to take on a preposterous task—to open an authentic Texas barbecue joint in the haughtiest of the world’s gastronomic capitals—and now he was about to face perhaps his single greatest challenge: moving the Oyler Pit 700, a mammoth smoker manufactured in Mesquite, Texas, to the doorstep of his new restaurant. So when his phone rang, and he was told that the movers wanted to deliver the enormous contraption at the ungodly hour of 4 a.m., he didn’t argue. Rue Meslay, where Abramowicz’s restaurant was to open, is…
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